When – August 2023 1st – 16th @ 6am
With – Nuala and Jen 🙂
Transport
Flight 1 – From Dublin to Geneva with aer lingus @6am on the 1st – 1 piece 23kg – 3hrs 20mins
Flight 2 – From Geneva to Tirana with easy jet @ 1 pm on the 15th – 1 piece 23kg – 2hrs
Flight 3 – From Tirana to Frankfurt with Whizz Air @5pm on the 19th – 1 piece 23kg – 2.5hrs
Flight 4 – From Frankfurt to Dublin with Ryanair @11pm on the 19th – 1 piece 23kg -2 hrs
Accommodation – An array of mountain huts, hotels, and guesthouses along the route.
Day 1 – August 1st – Dublin – Geneva – Chamonix – Les Houches
Omg, the day has come!! It’s time for TDMB woohoo. We woke at 2.30 am. Mam had melon cut for us, bless her and she drove me and Nuala to the airport @4am. Checked in and it was all self-check-in. We met Jen there and we all had tea and coffee. The flight to Geneva was at 6 am! It was a grand (good) flight, 1hr 40mins. We got our bags, no queue and we sat for coffee and sambos while waiting for the bus to Chamonix @12.30 (I booked this for us separately online, 15 euro I think). It was 2hrs and wow the VIEWS of Chamonix and around were just beautiful. I was overwhelmed, stunned. I can see why people love it here. We got off and then went to get the shuttle bus (every 20 mins), 9 stops later and we arrived at our lovely accommodation in Les Houches. Hotel Du Bois. We chilled for a bit, and then me and Nuala went down to the pool and sauna. A couple kept making out in the pool haha lol. We were like ok, let’s get out! We got up and showered and we went down for our buffet dinner at 7.30 pm. Omg what a spread, amazing. There was salmon, salads, bread, roasties, cheeses, pork, and amazing baked potatoes, yum. I had wine and we went back to the room at 9 pm. We got ready for the next day and bed at 10ish. We all conked!!!
Day 2 – August 2nd – Les Houches – Les Contamines (14km)
We got up at 7 am. We packed our bags and went down for a fab brekkie. Another buffet-style breakfast with yogurts, fruits, cereals, bread, eggs, pastries, cheese, meats, everything. We made sandwiches to bring with us. We set off at 9 am and got the Bellevue cable car up to Les Houches and started. Honestly, the scenery was so stunning. We crossed the Bionnassy Valley (2120), Cul Du Tricot. Stunning views of Mont Blanc and the foothills of the Alps. There was a huge glacier there too. We hiked down these hairpin bends to Chalet De La Miage where we had coffee and a break. What a beautiful place hidden in this big valley, with nothing but fields, streams, and views around.
We continued for another 2 hours up and down to Les Contamines – a fab little village with a few supermarkets, a church, hiking shops, etc. Our hotel was called Hotel La Chemenaz and it was about 1.5km from the village with an outdoor pool and beanbags to just sit and chill at. Wow, we are being spoiled, so fancy haha! I went through some pics and sat by the pool, then went inside and wrote in my diary for an hour till 7 pm. It was so peaceful there and dinner was at 7.30 pm. Now it was a little fancy/fine dining for our liking and not that tasty. We had eggplant pate with cold tomato soup around it, chicken supreme with couscous, and apricot crumble – very sweet! But all lovely! Went up to my room at 9 pm, packed for tomorrow, and bed at 10 pm. Nuala was in the bunk bedroom and Jen and I had two single beds! It was a 4* hotel!!
Day 3 – August 3rd – Les Contamines – Bourg Saint Maurice (18km)
We got up at 6.45 pm and went down for a buffet brekkie at 7 am. It was really lovely, bread, cheeses, jams, fruit, granola, eggs, fab coffee, and even these healthy ginger shots hahaha. Of course, we packed a wee lunch with us. We set off at 8.30 am. We walked along the river to Notre Dame De La Gorge (it was the official starting point for day 2). Wow, so this was a climb, it took us about 4 hrs to reach the refuge, Crux Du Bonhomme, 2,500m. The views from here and the whole way up were amazing!! We had some coffee there but *NOTE – there were lots and lots of flies there. We sat outside then and looked over the amazing valley below – no flies. (Chapieux Valley…STUNNING). I feel like I am going to use the words stunning, wow, amazing, and, beautiful a lot throughout this post haha!!
From there it took us about 1.5/2hrs to descend to La Nove refuge in Chapieux. We chilled there for a while, had a drink, and then shared a taxi with four Americans to Bourg Saint Maurice where our accommodation was. It was 70 euros for the transfer, so 10 euros each. It was a 30-minute drive and very windy! We stayed @ Hotel Arolla and we had a wee family room. It was cute and had a good shower. We all had a shower and chilled. Nuala felt a little sick so took a nap and me and Jen went exploring. We strolled around the very cute town, there was a pedestrian area and some live music on the square. We sat outside in the sun and had some sparkling water. We chilled there till about 6 pm and went back to our hotel for dinner. We sat out the back. Dinner was salad, lasagne, paella, and the strange but nice man haha. We headed to bed at about 10 pm.
Day 4 – August 4th – Bourg Saint Maurice – Valley Des Glaciers – Courmayeur (33km – 2 days combined)
We got up at 5.30 am, brekkie at 6. The fresh croissants, yum, plenty of coffee, and a small buffet-style spread. We still managed to pack a little for lunch! We got the pink shuttle bus back to Chapieux where we continued our hike. It took 1.5 hours to walk to the start point. It was a little hilly alright, then we had to climb 5km straight up – gradually to 2510m. It was SO windy up there. Col De La Seigne, glad for the layers!! Then it was downhill and straight for 50 minutes to the famous Refuge Elizabetha – wow what a view from up there, I can understand why it is famous (but apparently not a great place to stay the night)! We stayed and had coffee and sambos there. We took lots of pics as the views were incredible of the valleys with sharp mountain peaks and snow on top.
On we went (another FIVE hours) to Courmayeur (we had to do two days in one because accommodation was tricky to book, but had a free day in Courmayeur as an award). It was flat for ages, along the river for an hour, then we had a 500m ascent to Mont Favre (not a col) false summit lol. Then we descended through a ski resort with chair lifts and all. We stopped at a place called Masson Vielle for beers and water (defo an Apres Sky kind of joint in the right season)!! We met two mad Irish trail runners who were like mountain goats! It started raining quite heavily, we walked for 30 minutes and got the cable car down to the town for 10 euros.
From there it was a 15-minute walk to our hotel (we were so tired by then too). It was called Hotel Croux and it was beautiful thank god! The town oozes money lol, really fancy, and all the designer shops and fancy streets. Lots of elderly, retirees were around chilling and having their drinks on terraces. It is such a pretty place. We got settled into our triple room and had showers. Dinner was not included so we went to the supermarket and got a feast of random goodies. We took it back to the common area which had a pool table and we tucked into a random display of foods with chats and tea for hours! Delightful. Myself and Nuala played pool and went to bed at 10ish. I woke about 6 times through the night ah…but an off day tomorrow so all good!
Day 5 – August 5th – FREE DAY in Courmayeur
We arose at 8.30 am and went down for brekkie – so yum. Eggs, bacon, crepes, croissants, bread. We chilled for ages and then I went down to the gym to stretch out, roll out, and do some mobility, it was so needed, and I felt great after. I strolled around the town with Nuala for a bit and then went into some shops. I went for a walk and rang mam to fill her in on the trip. I was tempted to buy things but I refrained lol, I did not need to spend 200 euros on a Patagonia jumper that was for sure haha. I went back to the hotel to the girls at 2.30 and wrote in my diary till 3.30 pm. We had lots of chill time and went out and got takeaway for dinner and back to the common room to eat it. We got ourselves for the next day and went to bed early.
Day 6 – August 6th – Courmayeur – Refuge Elena – Col du Ferret – La Fouly – Refuge du Glacier (32km – 2 days combined)
Another big day was ahead of us. OMG, what a day…I’m not sure we realized what was ahead of us haha. It was tough and long – 9 hrs and 35 km!! We got up early and down for a brekkie at 6.30 am. They had it all set up for us, so sweet that the brekkie didn’t start until 7 am. We left at 7.30 am and left Courmayeur and made our way up, up and up for a few hours until we reached Refuge Bertone – it felt like Sunset Peak in Hong Kong. There were also a few random people playing music there too. The view was fab from here. Then it went up and flat and up again to Refuge Bonetti where we stayed for a coffee and a snack. Fantastic views again. There was an Italian and Down flag (as Nuala liked to point out haha) right outside the refuge. Nuala was sorting Jen out with her physio skills haha!
When we left there, it was another two hours to Refuge Elana. It was flat at first and then very steep down to a main road. We went the wrong way for about 30mins but at least it was flat, so we turned back and passed some little huts and cafes, they wouldn’t allow us to use the toilet, so yet again I had to pop a squat ha! We were so tired by now too and then all we could see was up and up! It was a solid uphill climb to Refuge Elana (where we probably should’ve stayed). We took a quick toilet break here and powered through to our next destination. Then we had another tough and steep 500m incline to Col Du Ferret (I happily incorrectly pronounced the ‘t’ at the end, and continued to do so hahaha). Our legs were really tired by then and it was FREEZING at the top, there was even a little snow too!
Poor Nuala had blisters and Jen’s poor leg was in bits at this stage and we had still another bit to go. She powered through with such sharp pain, and it was actually worse for her going downhill! We had three more hours from this point so we descended slowly through green hills and some barren landscape, farmlands, and down to La Fouly, and boy were we glad to see our accommodation at that stage!!
Now, this was the night that we had to share a dorm and I laughed thinking of poor Nuala and her real fear of sharing with so many people! Refuge Du Glaciers. I had a hot, hot shower for ages and got into my cozy clothes. I was never so happy to be showered and in warm clothes lol. It was a 6-bed dorm, very tight! We went down for dinner at 7 pm. It was buffet style and it was delish. There was soup, salad, meat, roasties, really yummy. I ate loads but sure after 34 km and 9 hours of hiking, I think we deserved it! We were sitting with and chatting with two French girls, they were really nice. Went to bed at 9ish. I couldn’t sleep and poor Nuala was traumatized, stuck in between Jen and a strange man, and couldn’t get down to the toilet. We laugh about it now haha!!
Day 7 – August 7th – La Fouly – Champex Lac (16km)
Up at 6 am. A 6-bed dorm last night and a lot of snoring going on. In and out of sleep all night. We had our buffet brekkie, took coffee, yogurt, fruit, toast, the lot! I packed a lunch to come with me ;). Today was meant to be the shortest and easiest day but it was still a little tough. We started in La Fouley and walked along the river and through some hamlet little villages. We passed through a place called Praz de Fort with about 10 houses and a little outdoor coffee area. Then onto Issert where we stopped to have a little coffee and snack. Poor Jen had to cut today short to go to a physio and see about her knee. Amazing she found a physio and got sorted right away. She was told she could continue but had to do all her physio stretches etc so woohoo for that! It encouraged us all to do our stretches :).
Myself and Nuala continued uphill again for about 90 minutes. It felt hot today! We went through woodlands, sheer drops, and lots of little wooden carved animals, it was steep enough. We bumped into the two Scottish lads again (we met them at Elizabetha). We arrived in Champex Lac at 1 pm!! How nice to be finished early. It was absolutely beautiful there, the lake in the middle of the small town with a little bar beside it…fab! The lake looked cold!!
Our accommodation was Hotel Du Glaciers but not ready until 2 pm so we chilled outside with tea/coffee and snacks until it was. I wrote in my diary and we went up to the room and had a bit of chill time. Myself and Nuala went down to the lake and there was a little bar there. We sat down by the paddle boats that you could rent. No one was swimming but you were allowed to. So myself and Nuala went in. It was bloody FREEZING hahaha but so refreshing and felt fab after. I got a lovely beer after and Nuala had a nice hot chocolate. Adam joined us and then Jen came down too. We had some relaxing beers chilling in the sun, this was just perfect!!!!! It was so relaxing and I was in my element. It was so serene there. We went to the shop after and back to the hotel for dinner. Set menu prawns, meat, mash and veg, and basically a plate of cream for dessert! Adam came around to play some pool with Nuala, we hung around for a bit and we all hit the hay at 9:30ish!
Day 8 – August 8th – Champex Lac – La Forclaz (15km)
We got up at 6.30, got ready, and went down for brekkie at 7 am. Buffet style again. Always a queue for the coffee machine. Plenty of stuff as always, breads, cereals, coffee, ham, and cheeses. Just FYI, today was described as the toughest day haha so we were in for a treat!!
A scramble up and down for 2665m. We walked flat for ages along a stream and then through a very vast landscape where we started our incline up the boulders. It was a solid three-hour scramble to the top of Fenettre D’Arpette pass which lies at 2665m where we needed our arms to pull us up. Now, Nuala with the sprained bloody shoulder was amazing, a trooper and I was trying to do it with one arm to see and I couldn’t so fair play to her for pushing through! And Jen’s leg held up well too! We had a few little snacks at the top and took in the views in absolute awe!! Wow, the massive glacier was the view the whole way down the other side, fantastic!! It was very steep, severely steep going down the other side. It took us 4hours to get down as there was no rushing here! Very steep and had lots of very big steps.
We were treated to more amazing views when we got to La Forclaz! We also stopped for a wee coffee 30 minutes before we reached the finish. This is where a lovely bee flew into my protein drink and frightened the shit out of me haha! Our accommodation, Hotel Du Forclaz was lovely, We had a private dorm to ourselves. Small room but cozy. We all showered and at 5 pm I sat outside, got a beer, and took in the views of the mountains while replying to messages. Nuala joined me and we moved to sit by the hotel with Jen and the Scotts (who were camping btw).
Our dinner was at 7 pm, veg soup for starters, chicken, chips, and veg for dinner, and strawberries and ice cream for dessert. It was nice enough apart from the chips. I felt wrecked and I went up to bed at 9 pm. We all chilled in the room and had the laughs. We went through pics, I slept in the top bunk. I conked by 10.30, only woke once, and had such weird dreams.
Day 9 – August 9th – La Forlax – Argentines – Switzerland / France (17.5km)
We got up at 6.30 and had a fine sleep. We got sorted and down for brekkie. We had coffee, croissants, colored eggs hehe, yogurt and granola, and of course a packed lunch. We did our stretches looking over the Swiss Alps, as you do, and met Adam and James. We started hiking together and hiked down to Trient (the pink church), then of course up, up, and up 1200m. It was like Sunset Peak (Hong Kong) again through the forest. It was very, very steep at the start, then opened up to amazing views and then a less steep incline to Col Du La Balme where the border of Switzerland and France is. Plenty of pictures here, very windy! There were incredible views on either side. We stayed for coffee and snacks. Then we descended after 2.5 hours of assending. It took us 2 hrs to get down to La Blanc which was in our sights the whole way down. This area is another ski resort as there were cable cars dotted around the place so slightly busier. There were lots of chair lifts and cable cars to bring tourists to the top.
We walked through some little village, La Tour, Montrachet and finally to our accommodation in Argentines called La Dahl. It was such a lovely cute little guesthouse in the town with amazing views of the mountains from our little balcony! It was really beautiful and we arrived at 2 pm…nice. I took a stroll around the shops and got goodies in the supermarket. Back to the hotel and chilled with the girls and wrote in my diary till 4.30 pm. They went for ice cream and I went to meet them at the square after I showered. We went to a supermarket shop for dinner. I went for a stroll and rang Dad, he sounded good! We all had a long dinner on our balcony from 7 -9, delightful. The sunset in the mountains was so beautiful, the colors. We had a lovely chilled evening. The room was fab too, it was basically two rooms so Nuala had the double, and myself and Jen took the bunk beds. We fell asleep at 10.30.
Day 10 – August 10th – Argentines – Les Houches (30km)
We were up at 6.30 and brekkie at 7. This is our LAST DAY!! We all made our packed lunches, did our stretches, and made our way at 8.30 am. It was an uphill walk to Montrose, then our trail started. It was all uphill through the forest for about an hour…then wow amazing views, the vastness of the Alps like, unreal!! We took all the pics and then we had
…THE LADDERS…
There were so many and they were so steep. How older people managed it, I don’t know. It was cool though, an adrenaline rush for sure! We reached Lac Des Cheserys and then kept going up and up and up and up to THEE LAC BLANC. A solid 7km incline. We took it all in and sat by the lake for an hour and dipped our feet into the freezing, healing lake. It was busy here as people can do this as a day hike from Chamonix, so it is very popular!
We went on our way again and another bloody scramble and summit for an hour to reach Col De La Gliere where the views were crazy good, there was no real path here, just rocks and we managed to arrive at La Planpraz!! That was very tough actually and took us hours. I did go on ahead a bit just to get it done and sit for a bit! It was so, so hot by now and I just watched all the paragliders in a daze! By this time Jen’s leg was fooked so she decided to walk directly down the steep path into Chamonix and meet up in Les Houches!
I couldn’t believe we were only going to start the final section at this point but Nuala was ready and up for it so I pushed through haha! I think it was already 3/4 pm at this point! So off we went up and over Col Du Brevent cable car. Wow, it was up so bloody high and there was a bit of rock climbing again with ladders! We saw an Ibex and I made Nuala go first haha! I was shitting it! And you wouldn’t believe but we saw Adam and Richie up there at the top, haha how funny!!
We walked together for a while and then we went on ahead, they had their big backpacks! There was a beautiful ridge line for about an hour with views for miles and 360! It was a proper 2.5 hours down but we flew it as it said 4 hours but I think we just wanted to get down ASAP at this stage :). Then we went through the forest for 1.5 hours. We were absolutely spoiled for view today. A few trail runners leaped past us!! We the past the Christ Roi, like a mini Christ the Redeemer! 10 more mins to Les Houches….what?!! We are nearly there!!
Omg we arrived at 8.30 pm!!! Jesus, what a day, 29km and a million hours!! The boys arrived just after us, we met Jen at the same time, got takeaway bottled beers, and had the biggest cheers ever!! WE DID IT!! We got the bus to Chamonix then. We met Shane and Lennie, friends from Hong Kong (like three hrs after the planned time). We went to Rose Du Pont, a beautiful deco-red place and we were dressed like gypsies and probably smelled pretty bad too haha! We got cocktails and food, a goat’s cheese tartlets thing. It was so lovely to see them. We sat chatting for ages and eventually checked into our hotel at 11 pm! Well needed showers! Bed at 12!
Can’t believe we are done…what an amazing experience with the best company 170km – 9 days! Now, onto planning the next one :0)
Hope you enjoyed the read,
Amy xoxo